Since we’re all house-bound, thanks to Covid19, I thought you might enjoy this before-and-after transformation of my ‘Rain Garden.’
Even though many plants are still deciduous, patiently waiting for warmer weather, there’s still plenty happening right now to talk about its late winter/early spring charms.
Besides, if you’re like me, I love taking a peek at gardens that are still works-in-progress.
Throughout the year, I’ll be sharing more photos of this area, as there are tons of pretty amazing plants that are currently hiding underground.
But for now, I hope you enjoy seeing what my late winter garden looks like and my thought process behind its creation.
When we moved here 2 ½ years ago, it was probably the most depressing part of the garden, which meant I had to address it ASAP.
Especially since I see it every time I drive up my driveway or walk into the front yard.
The poor dead oak tree never had a chance, surrounded by water-guzzling lawn.
This area is in full sun throughout most of the day (with summer temperatures regularly reaching 100+ degrees) and is wide open to the deer who like to visit.
My entire front garden has a gentle slope downwards towards the street.
But this particular area has a naturally occurring ‘valley’ of sorts, with a low point in the center and the land rising up again on either side.
Therefore, when it rains, the water runs down my long driveway, right through the middle of this valley and into the neighboring driveway, then straight down to the street where it’s wasted.
When tackling a difficult area like this, I find it helpful to create a list of objectives, as well as problems that need to be solved.
It’s a great method for narrowing down priorities.
Create a Rain Garden to capture every last drop of water & keep it on my property.
After removing the dead lawn and oak tree, I now had a lovely, blank slate.
Oh, how I love blank slates – it’s so much easier to be creative once the mess is removed!
The first step was to mix in LOTS and LOTS of fast-draining compost to the existing nutrient-poor clay/soil.
I then created a crescent-shaped berm high enough to capture the winter rain that would run-off from the driveway.
I prefer using landscape paint to mark out the shape and size of a future garden bed.
The paint is inexpensive, sprays while being held upside down, and is easy to wipe away with your foot if you want to start over.
It also remains visible for several days, if needed, as long as it doesn’t rain.
While there are other methods people use to mark out a bed’s shape (ie: using a rope. garden hose, or even sprinkling flour), I find they’re not as easy to create smooth lines and curves.
One exception, though, is using long pieces of PVC pipe (you can see pics here), but for this project, the landscape paint was more convenient for me.
One of the challenges of creating a rain garden, though, is to find plants that would thrive at the very ‘bottom of the bowl.’
Because the plants at the very bottom of the depression need to be happy with ‘wet feet’ in the winter (sometimes sitting in a puddle of water for a few days at a time) while receiving limited water throughout the rest of the year.
I’ve had amazing luck with two types of Bluestar – amsonia ‘Blue Ice’ (left) and amsonia hubrichtii (above.)
Others that have thrived in this difficult spot are Feverfew (chrysanthemum aureum), Switchgrass (panicum virgatum ‘Apache Rose,’ and Feather Reed Grass (calamagrostis acutifolia ‘Overdam’.)
Another of my new favorites that has done incredibly well living in the flood-zone/dry-zone is this Penstemon ‘Midnight Masquerade.’
It looks fantastic every single day, despite 100+ summers and 28-degree winters! And I’ve found this variety to be one of the few maroon penstemons that doesn’t lose it’s lovely dark colors in the summer heat.
Provide year-round interest
The section of the garden is visible from my FAVORITE part of my house – the covered porch.
I spend as much time as I can on my porch (even in the rain!) and love looking at my garden and all the wildlife that visits.
Therefore, the new rain garden needed to look good every day of the year, even in late winter/early spring.
To help the garden look its best in the early spring, I focused on creating color echoes.
I decided to create color echoes that would play off the vibrant red foliage of the giant photinia hedge is the backdrop of this area.
I finally have the perfect spot for my beloved birdhouse (built by my good friend, Freeland Tanner.
It’s the perfect color echo, don’t you think?
I have several euphorbia ‘Blackbirds’ planted throughout this space, providing that deep, dark maroon foliage year-round.
As does the penstemon ‘Midnight Masquerade’ that I featured above.
In order for this garden to look good year-round, I also needed to focus on adding plenty of evergreen plants and trees.
Along the top of the berm, I planted three evergreen citrus trees – a Washington Navel orange, (which I had and LOVED in my last garden), a Mandarinquat (which was a birthday present to my husband from my mother), and a ‘Meyer’ lemon tree.
I also planted two Pineapple Guava trees (feijoa sellowiana.)
Grown as either shrubs or smaller trees, they have the most beautiful, soft gray-green foliage with edible red flowers, and delicious summer fruit.
This is an example of the abundant fruit a single tree provides.
Planted between the citrus trees are a series of taller shrubs with my favorite being the amazing Canary Island Sage (salvia canariensis.)
Believe it or not, I planted this just last summer from a quart-sized container! Yep, that’s how fast it grows.
And while it isn’t blooming quite yet, I just love the oversized triangular leaves and its downy-covered stems.
Below is a pic of the plant when in bloom (I took this photo last year at the Sacramento Historic Cemetery’s Native Garden which should be looking fantastic in a few weeks!)
Create a pollinator garden.
This is especially important in the late winter, as I wanted to provide nectar for our California Pipevine Swallowtail butterflies.
I have several existing quince shrubs that begin blooming in early February, and if we’ve had an unusually warm winter, these butterflies can appear as early as March 1st.
They absolutely swarm the quince flowers, mainly because there isn’t much blooming so early in the garden.
Therefore, I wanted to make sure I had other early-blooming pollinator plants to add to their menu.
Another long-blooming butterfly favorite is the evergreen Jagged Lavender (lavendula pinnata buchii).
While this variety doesn’t smell like your typical lavender, the hundreds of neon dark purple candelabra-like flowers that bloom for months at a time make up for any shortcomings.
Take a look at the video below and you’ll see this butterfly agrees!
The new raised berm also allows for super fast-drainage, making it ideal for winter-blooming erica canaliculate ‘Rosea.’
In the heather family, this plant quickly grows to 10-feet (or more) and is covered with the cutest teeny pink flowers for months at a time.
‘Mozart’ is a new (to me, at least) variety of rosemary which has become my absolute favorites.
This mid-sized rosemary grows to just 2’x4′, making it ideal for the front of the border.
‘Mozart’ has extra dark green foliage and is covered with the most electric, deep blue flowers of all the varieties I’ve seen (you can read about others that I use in my designs here.
It blooms for months at a time, taking a short break towards the end of summer, only to ramp up again in December.
Of course I can’t forget to mention one of the longest-blooming winter plants in my garden – the groundcover grevillea ‘Mt. Tambooritha.’
Actually, these grevilleas have been blooming non-stop since October!
It’s fitting that it’s pouring rain here today!
I do hope you’ve enjoyed touring my new rain garden and can’t wait to show you what it does in the summer and fall.
You’ll hardly recognize it!